Q. My husband has an interview tomorrow with a software company for an entry level programming position. He has his BS in computer science but hasn't worked in the field for over 10 years. What should he write in a thank you card that he'll mail after the interview?
A. Most companies who are looking to hire someone for a potentially long term position are looking for Thank you letters. Through personal experience, call backs are sometimes based on those interviewees that send a thank you notice. My advice would be to email it, since it is a computer based job. I do graphic design, and I always send an email (not postal mail) out to those that I've interviewed with. If there were more than one person in the office interviewing me, I send it out to all of them. I ask for each of their business cards so I have their email and send them something the next morning.
What he might want to say is thank you of course, say how much he was impressed with the company, and how excellently his work ethic would fit into theirs. Be sure he mentions how much he learned about the company and what the job position is through the interview. Hopefully he can actually say that he has learned alot about the interview. Be sure he has questions he can ask, and mention the interesting answers in the Thank you letter (email). Along with a thank you for giving thoughtfull insight to his questions.
It isn't good to mention anything personal about anyone of the interviewers. Don't mention the picture of his daughter on his desk.... not good.
What he might want to say is thank you of course, say how much he was impressed with the company, and how excellently his work ethic would fit into theirs. Be sure he mentions how much he learned about the company and what the job position is through the interview. Hopefully he can actually say that he has learned alot about the interview. Be sure he has questions he can ask, and mention the interesting answers in the Thank you letter (email). Along with a thank you for giving thoughtfull insight to his questions.
It isn't good to mention anything personal about anyone of the interviewers. Don't mention the picture of his daughter on his desk.... not good.
how much would I cost to setup network for a small business?
Q. There will be five computers at different locations, My store is about 10,000 sq feet , Could anyone tell me how much it will cost to have someone install wired network/ or wireless network?
I will proved the hardware/software .
I will proved the hardware/software .
A. You said 10,000 square feet but you didn't give the dimensions of your store.
If its square, thats 100ft by 100ft. If you have computers at opposite ends, they could be just under 150 feet apart (141.4 feet). Complicate this by the fact that a lot of computers are under desks, shelves, etc, and wireless can get real flaky, especially if you have other wireless stuff (phones, etc) nearby, and nearby could include neighbors too.
If your building is 50x200 (still 10,000 square feet), then corner to corner is over 200 feet, really too far for most lower grade wireless equipment. Higher grade equipment would probably cost more than wiring the store.
Either way, depending on what your doing on the computers (handling customer info, etc) a wireless solution may not only be a bad idea, but an explicit security risk. Wireless is NOT secure, and don't let someone tell you it is. It is possible to secure it using VPN's and stuff on top of the wireless, but thats a little overkill for a store with 5 computers.
Generally wiring a network drop isn't that expensive, and it will be faster and more reliable, and less likely to be snooped on.
Just remember this with wireless, anything you can do, someone in a car parked in the next parking lot or building over can do the same. For some casual user at home, thats fine, but for someone that may be handling customer info, names, c/c info, etc, thats just not acceptable. If you any kind of HR work on your computers, it has the same problems.
On the other hand, if all your doing is looking stuff up in a catalog over the internet or something, none of this may be a concern.
If its square, thats 100ft by 100ft. If you have computers at opposite ends, they could be just under 150 feet apart (141.4 feet). Complicate this by the fact that a lot of computers are under desks, shelves, etc, and wireless can get real flaky, especially if you have other wireless stuff (phones, etc) nearby, and nearby could include neighbors too.
If your building is 50x200 (still 10,000 square feet), then corner to corner is over 200 feet, really too far for most lower grade wireless equipment. Higher grade equipment would probably cost more than wiring the store.
Either way, depending on what your doing on the computers (handling customer info, etc) a wireless solution may not only be a bad idea, but an explicit security risk. Wireless is NOT secure, and don't let someone tell you it is. It is possible to secure it using VPN's and stuff on top of the wireless, but thats a little overkill for a store with 5 computers.
Generally wiring a network drop isn't that expensive, and it will be faster and more reliable, and less likely to be snooped on.
Just remember this with wireless, anything you can do, someone in a car parked in the next parking lot or building over can do the same. For some casual user at home, thats fine, but for someone that may be handling customer info, names, c/c info, etc, thats just not acceptable. If you any kind of HR work on your computers, it has the same problems.
On the other hand, if all your doing is looking stuff up in a catalog over the internet or something, none of this may be a concern.
Why do you make a hole in a subwoofer/woofer cabinet?
Q. I want to build a pair of speakers with a woofer or subwoofer sitting UNDER my desk and two small bookshelf speakers sitting ON my desk with a mid-range and tweeter in each of them. Will this work? And also, why do you make a hole in the cabinet of the subwoofer/woofer? Should I do this? If so, how?
A. No you probably shouldn't do that. Mathematics to design a sealed box system can be done using simple arithmetic but to design a ported system requires 4th order differential equations. You can do it because these days software does all the hard parts for you. http://www.ht-audio.com/pages/BassBoxPro.html but for a simple system like that you're probably better off going with a sealed system. But just FYI, the "hole" or port is tuned to a specific frequency. At that tuned frequency the port and the woofer are in phase thus adding increasing output. Below this frequency they move out of phase and cancel causing the roll off to be steeper. Above the port frequency the port gradually produces less and less output until eventually it in effect ceases to exist.
You may want to consider a kit from Parts Express. http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=769 I'm not sure if any of these will work for you.
You can develop your own design but passive crossover design (or active for that matter) is not a trivial task. Proper measurement equipment and CAD software can make it pretty easy after you've had some experience. First you need Arta http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/ which you can download and use free. You will also need a measurement microphone and a good sound card. http://www.earthworksaudio.com/our-microphones/m-series/m30/ Once you have made measurements you need the crossover design software http://www.ijdata.com/ (800 Euro or about US$1050). Without these tools it's pretty hard to get good results.
Speaker building is a fun hobby and I don't want to discourage you from it. Especially in the mass market speaker manufacturers don't set the bar very high so even if you don't know what you're doing it's not too difficult to beat the performance of commercial options simply because you usually don't have access to the ultra cheap OEM drivers. You simply can't buy crappy enough drivers to sound as bad as most mass market commercial options!
Visit the AVS Forum DIY section, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=155 and take a look at some of the projects on the Parts Express web site. Sometimes PE does have "Buyout" deals giving you access to the really cheap drivers like mass market products use. This will allow you to give speaker building a try without spending much money.
Another option would be to look at "full range" drivers. This would eliminate the need for passive crossovers. The subwoofer is pretty simple and hard to screw up. Find a woofer with a low Fs (Resonance Frequency) and a medium Qts (damping factor) Qts = 0.7 needs to be infinite baffle, greater than 0.7 possibly can be used in open baffle with EQ but don't put it in any box of any size. Making the sealed box too large is far better than making it too small so error on the large side and you will be ok. Tang Band makes some really nice high excursion small woofers around 6.5" that would work great.
Have fun!
mk
You may want to consider a kit from Parts Express. http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=769 I'm not sure if any of these will work for you.
You can develop your own design but passive crossover design (or active for that matter) is not a trivial task. Proper measurement equipment and CAD software can make it pretty easy after you've had some experience. First you need Arta http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/ which you can download and use free. You will also need a measurement microphone and a good sound card. http://www.earthworksaudio.com/our-microphones/m-series/m30/ Once you have made measurements you need the crossover design software http://www.ijdata.com/ (800 Euro or about US$1050). Without these tools it's pretty hard to get good results.
Speaker building is a fun hobby and I don't want to discourage you from it. Especially in the mass market speaker manufacturers don't set the bar very high so even if you don't know what you're doing it's not too difficult to beat the performance of commercial options simply because you usually don't have access to the ultra cheap OEM drivers. You simply can't buy crappy enough drivers to sound as bad as most mass market commercial options!
Visit the AVS Forum DIY section, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=155 and take a look at some of the projects on the Parts Express web site. Sometimes PE does have "Buyout" deals giving you access to the really cheap drivers like mass market products use. This will allow you to give speaker building a try without spending much money.
Another option would be to look at "full range" drivers. This would eliminate the need for passive crossovers. The subwoofer is pretty simple and hard to screw up. Find a woofer with a low Fs (Resonance Frequency) and a medium Qts (damping factor) Qts = 0.7 needs to be infinite baffle, greater than 0.7 possibly can be used in open baffle with EQ but don't put it in any box of any size. Making the sealed box too large is far better than making it too small so error on the large side and you will be ok. Tang Band makes some really nice high excursion small woofers around 6.5" that would work great.
Have fun!
mk
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